We travelled to Ubud and Waka di Ume Resort from Seminyak, disappointed at how much dirtier and more polluted Bali had become in the six years since I was last there. Driving up the road to the resort from the centre of Ubud I felt the weight lift from my shoulders as rice paddies opened up on either side with the mountains as a backdrop. Waka di Ume uses its location to maximum effect, with its pool in a palm filled gully and rooms with views out over the rice paddies. The kitchen for their not-to-be-missed cooking class is in their organic garden, and their complimentary rice paddy treks are a great way to get a real feel for Ubud. Topped off by great service, rooms and food Waka di Ume is not to be missed.