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 The
September 23, 1999 is the time. The Gianyar city was crowded
by people. They came from all over the world with various motivations.
Most of them want to see the biggest Balinese Cremation ceremony
at the end of this century. But this extradionary event was
attended by many Indonesian Top Leaders (political, ministaries,
religious leaders, businessmen, etc), many ambasadors and consulates,
many publishing medias from more than 23 countries, thousands
tourists from all over the world and thousands local people.
Huh ... we are in deep waters of detailing them.
So Gianyar was full with people from all over the world. They want
to see the way of Balinese people to say good bye to their good
king ...
Ida Anak Agung, He is the last king
from the Gianyar Palace. He died last April on 78 years old. Most
time in his life was dedicated to his people need and for the welfare
of them. Some notes and memorial about him will be given by J.M.
Daniels Editor, Chairman PATA
BALI CHAPTER.
FAREWELL TO A KING
To experience a Balinese
cremation ceremony is both a rare opportunity and a soul-searching
experience. Understanding the centuries-old rituals and beliefs
that make the custom a tradition among the Balinese Dharma Hindu
helps bring perspective to an event, which could otherwise become
lost in a
smoky mist of confusion.
The days between death and ceremony are spent in intense preparation
of many details and rituals leading up to the event. It is believed
that the soul of the dead can not completely leave the body
until the body's five elements of air, earth, fire, water and
space have been returned to the cosmos. The soul can then depart
and find its new life through reincarnation. Mishandling of
any small detail could prevent the soul from reincarnating.
Even a medium-size cremation ceremony costs thousands of dollars
and the services of hundreds of family, community members and
friends. It may take months or even years for a family to achieve
a means of having a cremation. Without the voluntary cooperation
of the community, friends and family
members, the necessary preparations would be impossible.
The late Rajah admitted he never could have afforded the royal
send-off in 1992 for his late wife, without the assistance of
the entire community, working in a labor of love and respect,
not only to the royal family, but also in devotion to the gods.
In fact, the last massive royal cremation in Gianyar included
the Rajah's mother and four stepmothers.
Likewise, poorer villagers may cremate a dead relative without
ceremony or bury it until the body or bones can be retrieved
to join in the elaborate ceremonies of a wealthier neighbor
when a proper ceremony, such as this royal event, is undertaken.
Thus, there were numerous cremations and other
traditional rights-of-passage ceremonies taking place in Gianyar
on September 23.
A proper ceremony wins prestige within the village and deifies
the ancestor's spirit, which continues to occupy an important
role of guidance in their family's lives.
THE LAST BALI ROYAL CREMATION
CEREMONY
These royal cremation ceremonies
incorporate aspects that may or may not be conducted in a normal
cremation. While lying in state, the body was accompanied by
the presence of people daily. It was offered food three times
daily, its ceremonial textiles changed daily and in the evening,
songs and
readings in Sanskrit were performed from ancient texts inscribed
on lontar palm books, to entertain the deceased.
A series of intricate ceremonies preceded the cremation procession
by several days. These included opening the funerary wrappings
of cloth and "tikar" grass mat wrappings to clean
and rewrap the body in "wastra" white cloth and fine
textiles. It is transferred to the "sumangen" pavilion
where it will rest for a prescribed number of days, in this
case four days for the highest caste of royalty. During this
time, the sarcophagus and funeral tower were brought to the
"sumangen".
The cremation day was punctuated with many artistic performances
of traditional music and dance, to honor the late Rajah. The
royal "sumangen" was surrounded by ancient spears
and sacred umbrellas. A separate "bale" structure
housed an enormous and intricately carved mythical dragons ("naga
banda") with a 200-meter- long, red velvet tail, coiled
to contain the five elements required to free and carry the
spirit from its human form. This massive carving, decorated
in woven bamboo strips, velvet, jewels and
filigreed leather was the largest ever created and was crafted
under the guidance of esteemed artisan Tjokorda Raka Tisu. The
4-meter-high "lemu" sarcophagus and 24-meter-high
"bade" tower were moved into the "sumangen"
from which the main procession began passing through a narrow
split-gate. The massive "lemu" had horns wrapped in
gold and a jeweled "third eye". A dozen high priests
and two dozen junior priests and retainers performed the necessary
ceremonies. Arrows were shot to the
four compass points, the sky and the earth. These are guides
for the dragon's journey with the soul into the cosmos. The
deceased's life and intentions or his "karma" dictate
the ultimate direction.
Throngs of ordinary citizens and tourists gathered in the city
center, before the palace, by noon, awaiting the procession--the
city at a virtual standstill. Dignitaries gathered at the palace
for an overview of the initial blessings by a series of high
priests, whom were bodily carried for the remainder of events,
to maintain their higher connection with God. Villagers lined
the 2-km procession route to the cremation grounds, while participants
holding offerings towering offerings on their heads shaded by
sacred umbrellas and playing gongs led the procession to the
final destination. The "lemu", supported by bamboo
poles and carried by some 200 men proceeded first, followed
by the "naga banda", its long tail
extended and carried behind. Water tanker trucks sprayed the
sacred bearers, and the crowd, scattering photographers and
television crews with its wet refreshment.
The nine-tiered "bale" teetered; making difficult
swirls and turns before entering the grounds, behind which the
hoards of participants followed. Cordoned off by privacy barriers,
only the family, invited guest and documentarians entered the
sacred grounds, while thousands gathered on the outskirts to
observe.
The "bale" tower was "parked" before a ramp,
down which the Rajah's coffin was carried, draped in the red
and white Indonesian flag. The "lemu" was hacked open
and the "lid" removed, the body placed inside the
sarcophagus and covered with a maroon velvet cloth bearing the
palace coat of arms.
Full military honors were presented as more than a hundred arms-bearing
honor guards ranked and formed before the pyre--army, navy,
marines, police, air force, civil security and the government
organization "Korpri". After representative honors
were read from the government, interior ministry and
foreign department, 10 army soldiers mounted the steps surrounding
the pyre to present a rifle salvo. As taps rang out among an
unusually silent crowd, the flag was folded and retrieved, the
military troops dismissed.
The Hindu Dharma rituals began as four Hindu high priests were
physically carried in seated positions, up a 45 degree incline
ramp to the pyre. Joined by the Rajah's sons and brother, they
received copious offerings of rich textiles, coins, fruit and
flowers that were piled into the "lemu"--gifts which
the deceased would need in his transition into the next life.
Children gathered holy water used for the cremation from the
convergence of two rivers at midnight, the morning of the cremation.
After the water was dispersed over the body, the family members
smashed the clay pots containers to the ground. They could no
longer be used, having served the highest
purpose.
The sarcophagus "lid" being replaced, a bracing structure
was quickly constructed to support the heavy "naga banda"
which was moved into place with much struggle. After final payers
by the high priest, the Rajah's sons and brother bore cloth-wrapped
bamboo poles to the pyre. Lit by the priest, these torches then
ignited the "lemu", which in moments caught into a
roaring fire. The entire pyre quickly caught and burst into
hot flames that drove the family and guests back into a circle
encompassing the pyre. This was the moment that the Rajah's
soul was thus released into the cosmos to seek its karma and
reincarnation.
Within 15 minutes, the entire structure was engulfed in flames,
rapidly diminishing to embers. As the roof structure exploded
and scattered clay tiles onto the ground, the crowd began to
disburse. Returning to the palace for dinner, the family returned
shortly to gather the ashes for a moonlit trek to the sea. The
procession to the sea stretched for kilometers, as those paying
homage to the Rajah joined the journey by foot to Lebih Beach,
about 3 kilometers away. Dozens of families of others being
cremated on the same day also joined the procession. In the
last royal procession to the beach, for
the Rajah's wife's cremation in 1992, the start of the procession
reached the beach before the last participants had even left
the palace. Later in the night, the "bale" in the
cremation grounds will be set to flames
A final ceremony takes place November 4-5, when another pilgrimage
to the sea for cleansing is undertaken. Last New Year's Eve,
the Rajah gathered his sons and their families at the palace
and spoke to them in earnest about a premonition of his death.
He told them that even in death, his soul would be with them
where ever they went. In his wisdom, he advised them to follow
their principles, if them believed them to be right, and to
never be opportunistic.
Rajah Agung believed that the three pillars of strength for
the Balinese are tradition, culture and religion. His wishes
and desires for his own cremation ceremony were meticulously
detailed and recorded, from the moment of his death to the moment
of his soul's release. And, in these five months of preparations,
the family and devoted residents of the Gianyar regency and
beyond, strove to carry out the Rajah's wishes to the final
degree, to honor their highly respected,
democratic and benevolent king.
Bali Ngaben - Cremation Ceremony : Series
of events
Bali Ngaben - Cremation Ceremony : The Tower
Bali Ngaben - Cremation Ceremony : Close Up The Bade
Bali Ngaben
- Cremation Ceremony : The Lembu
Bali Ngaben - Cremation Ceremony : The Nagabanda
Bali Ngaben - Cremation Ceremony : The Procession
Bali Ngaben - Cremation Ceremony : Other Slides
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