Tabanan

The regency of Tabanan in the west has a turbulent history not unlike that of its neighbours. According to rather hazy accounts, the first Raja of Tabanan, Arya Damar, was appointed by the fallen Majapahit Emporer, who assigned him an extensive kingdom consisting of a large amounts of the lands to the south, Tabanan and Mengwi, in appreciation of his valiant services in subdueing the island of Bali.

As the generations went by the warring descendants of  this Raja redivided the kingdoms and Mengwi was split between Tabanan and Badung in the 17th Century.

The death of raja Ngurah Agung, and consequent cremation in 1903, brought an unexpected turn of events, His cremation, to which the royalty of all other rajadoms were invite, was carried out with traditional  "sutte" rites, the last recorded in Bali, in which the wives of the late Raja followed their husband in death by jumping into the funeral pyre, causing outrage amongst the Dutch.

This was followed by another incident, the plundering of the shipwreck Sri Kumala, in which both men from Tabanan and Badung were implicated. Dutch forces intent on punishment marched on Badung, and a terrible “puputan” resulted. Subsequently they attacked Tabanan, where the Raja and his prince decided to bargain with the Dutch. They were threatened with exile, and put in the Denpasar jail, where both finally committed suicide. Their closest relatives were exiled to Lombok, and the magnificent palace of Tabanan was plundered and razed by the Dutch army.

The royal lands, which covered one of the richest rice-growing areas in Bali, were redistributed amongst councils of individual villages, and the regency of  Tabanan prospered in general.

From the Mountains to the Sea

From Mount Batukau, Bali’s second highest mountain, covered in dense tropical jungle, the regency stretches in a sweeping panorama of fertile rice fields to a vast expanse of coastline, rocky outcrops interspersed with long sandy beaches.

Pura Luhur Batukau

In dense jungle near the peak of Batukau, at the end of a narrow winding road, lies the ancient mountain sanctuary of the Rajas of  Tabanan, Pura Luhur Batukau. Here mythical tigers roam the forest, appearing each year in their spirit form during a trance dance of the temple festival. The ancient temple complex has a number of separate sanctuaries joined by damp mountain paths , a bubbling spring and a large rectangular lake with another shrine in its midst. In the main temple is a single  seven-tiered meru to Mahadewa, the deity associated with Batukau, as well as shrines of  the three mountain lakes, Bratan, Buyan, and Tamblingan. Built as the state temple of the Kindom of Tabanan, and ancestral temple of its royal family, it has the distinctive stone shrines or “parasada” of all those temples closely linked with Majapahit influences.

Tabanan

The capital of the regency is a bustling, growing town, with a long main street dominated by shops and tiny restaurants. There is a large central produce market and which appears as if by magic in the evening, filling up an empty street, and is literally rolled away before down.

Krambitan

Once a minor court attached to the Royal family of  Tabanan, the village of Krambitan, just a few kilometers off the main road to the southwest, has two rambling Puri palace complexes. In elegant architectural style, pavilions are laid out in a series of spacious courtyards according to they traditional function. Here regular performances of the  Tektekan are held, a stunning creation which derives from the Calon Arang drama of exorcism, complete with realistic trance and fear some kris-stabbing.

Tanah Lot

A trip in the Tabanan Regency is not complete without a visit to the ancient temple of Tanah Lot. From Kediri the narrow road meanders trough verdant ricefields and quaint little villages to this picturesque sea temple which is perched upon a rocky outcrop surrounded by crashing surf at high tide. Attributed to the influence of the 16th  century priest Dang Hyang Nirartha,  this rugged rock has been eroded over the centuries by the swirling tides, and the government plans a formidable restoration project in the near future to prevent further damage. Tanah Lot is one of Bali’s six most important temples that are closely related to a number of equivalent mountain sanctuaries.

Pejaten

A tradition of earthenware pottery-making has for centuries kept the villages of  Pejaten busy making useful pots, tiles and ornaments from fire –baked clay. The fragility of the pots ensures both continual supply and demand, and they are used all over the island. In the last few years a foreign aid project within the village has set up a new sophisticated kiln and fully equipped  studio where the youth of the village are trained in the application of glazes, opening up a complete new market in durable kiln-fired ceramic ware.

Marga

The Battle of Marga, on 20th November1946, goes down in the annals of Balinese history as the most valiant struggle against the Ducth during Bali’s many years of fighting for independence. The Hero of the occasion, Brig.Gen. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, (See page 26), and his band of 93 guerilla fighters were killed to a man, after exhibiting brave resilience under bombardment from the air, surrounded by a Dutch force superior in both weaponry and numbers. A tall monument to this battle stands in quiet field at the village of Marga, a famous letter by Ngurah Rai, refusing to surrender unto death, inscribed upon it. Rows of stone date memorials to the soldiers lost in the  battle fill the entire field, and each year on the same date a memorial march and service are held there.

Bedugul

The road through central Bali over to the north coast reaches its highest point at the mountain resort of Bedugul. Suddenly the view opens up of  sparkling Lake Beratan, Lying serenely in the midst of an elongated valley which was formed centuries ago, crater of some primeval eruption. Forest clad hills back the lake, and on one shore is a tiny boating resort, with canoes and speed boats available for trips on the lake. Perfect waterskiing conditions prevail here all year round.

A small temple honouring Dewi Danu, goddess of the lake, protrudes right into the water at one point, and the valley is a patchwork of vegetable and flower gardens. Here both temperate and tropical species grow side bay side, and it is not unusual to see piles of vegetable and fruit on the sides of  the roads, waiting for a night trip to the Denpasar markets. Further down the valley, just across the border into the Buleleng Regency, is the championship golf course of Bali Handara.

There is a large flower, fruit and produce market at the southwestern corner of the valley, where day-trippers generally stop and stock up on mountain-fresh supplies, flowers and plants for their gardens. The road veers off here towards the western foothills, where an entire tree-clad hillside is laid out in Botanical Gardens with a special orchid plantation. Many pleasant walks follow shady paths ideal for picnicking.