Buleleng

The northern region of Buleleng stretches from east to west in a narrow coastal strip backing onto foothills that reach up to the central mountain ranges. Along the coastline rice fields reach almost to the sea, and there are a series of lovely secluded beaches, perfect for watersports and skin-diving, with colourful underwater coral grottos.

The Kingdom of Buleleng rose to power during the 17th Century, under the ladership of Gusti Pandji Sakti,who extended his realm of authority to the neighboring kingdoms of Karangasem and Jembrana. An association with Mengwi lasted till the end of the 18th Century, when the two kingdoms separated again and lost their powers to the warring princes of Karangasem.

Dutch control began in 1848, ending the feudal rule of the Rajas. The women of Buleleng were the first to adopt the Kebaya Malay blouse which was enforced by Dutch rule “to protect the morals of the Dutch soldiers”. Singaraja was chosen by the Dutch because of its excellent harbour as their capital.

The Banjar system of sub-village communities in North Bali is  not as institutionalizes as it is in South Bali. The way of life centres more around the individual family with the accompanying effect that the caste system is not as rigid as in the south.

Singaraja’s long history as the major port in Bali has resulted in a mixed population of Muslims and Chinese as well as the indigenous Balinese. The city was always a trading centre for the Bugis sea traders, former pirates who operated throughout the archipelago from their home ports in Sulawesi. Chinese influence from the merchants who have made Singaraja their home for thousands of years is also quite apparent, the long association with the Dutch has resulted in many imposing residences of European design. Hotel Singaraja was the former seat of the Dutch Governor.

The Gedung Kertya, the most extensive library of ancient lontars, palm-leaf  books containing a wealth of manuscripts on history, liteature, medicine and mythology, just near the hotel Singaraja, was first established by the Dutch.

Eploring the North  Coast

There are several ways of approaching Singaraja from the south. The central mountain road, which is linked by regular public transport service, passes through a cross-section of the island via the crater lakes of Bedugul, taking in grand scenic panoramas of the entire island.

Another road takes a more westerly route  from Denpasar, passing through the hilltop village of   Pupuan. Other roads approach the region from the transit port to Java, Gilimanuk, on the island’s western extremity, from Amlapura in East Bali via a fairly rugged coastal road that passes through Kintamani.

The border between Tabanan and Buleleng regencies on the central mountain route to Singaraja falls in the midst of  Bedugul resort, just past the sparkling Lake Beratan, at the entrance to the village of  Pancasari. Here the 18-hole championship golf course of Bali Handara, mentioned earlier, lies at the end of a small side-road that winds through spectacular 100 hectare property.

Past the village of  Pancasari the road once more winds up to the lip of the crater. From Asah Gobleg the entire lowlands of north Bali strecth out before the eye to the fringe of coast in the distance. Another mountain route can be reached via Tabanan, turning at Antosari and climbing up into the hills where vanilla beans grow in every spare plot of land, to the coffee plantations of  Pupuan.

The road from Gilimanuk passes through the Bali Barat National Park, which extends as far as Teluk Terima, a sheltered bay where simple accommodation is available and boats can be arranged to cross to Menjangan Island, part of large underwater reserve that has some of the most beautiful coral grottos to be seen in this part of the world. (See Tour Section, page 121)

Just 14 kilometres before Singaraja, fronting the secluded beaches, begins a stretch of small lodges offering simple accommodation, some of which have restaurants and water sports facilities. Lovina Beach resorts, as it is known, actually covers and area of nearly eight kilometres of idyllic coastline, including the beaches of Lovina, Kalibubuk, and Tukad-Mungga..

The approach to Singaraja from the eats is equally as scenic. The eastern lowlands and foothills are full of orchards : mandarins mangoes, oranges, grapes, and durian grow here seasonally in great quantities From Amlapura the coast passes through a rocky, arid area emerging at the oasis-like village of Air Saneh, with its fresh, spring-fed pool by the sea and quiet cottages, a popular weekend resort for the townspeople of Singaraja. The route through Kintamani winds down the ranges in a series of hairpin bends, passing through the town of Jagaraga.

In Tejakula, 25 kilometres before Singaraja, there stands an ancient temple, Pura Ponjok Batu, which is surrounded by fresh water springs. Another spectacular temple not to be missed is in the village of  Kubutan. Pura Meduwe Karang, devoted to “Ibu Pertiwi” (mother earth) is full of detailed sculptures. Just two kilometres further down the road, near the village of Sangsit, the 15th Century Pura Beji, a “subak” rice field temple, features gates and walls redolent with highly detailed carvings.